Guilloché
Guilloché, also referred to as engine turning, is work produced on a rose engine or straight-line engine and refers to a method of mechanical engraving often used on metal, glass, clay, bone, or wood. The rose engine was developed in the 16th century, but found wide-scale popularity in the early 19th century when Abraham-Louis Breguet applied the craft to augment his watch dials, cases, and movements; many believe it reached its apex with the work of Russian goldsmith to the Tzar Peter Carl Fabergé.
Breguet Pocket Watch © Musée international d'horlogerie de La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Breguet Pocket Watch © Musée international d'horlogerie de La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Contemporary watchmakers still use Breguet’s work as a standard of excellence. Breguet’s trademark silver dials were often bleached, producing a whitish, matte surface that accentuates the engine turning. However, this finish is susceptible to degradation, and recovery is difficult, if not impossible. Craftsmen contemporary to Breguet manufactured objects with both guilloché and enamel; however, Breguet’s work into the 19th century set the bar for watches of this era and the guilloché on them.
Schwarz Etienne & Guilloché
Collaborations between watchmakers and watchmaking brands have become part of life for many years. The synergy between people coming together ultimately results in often unexpected and refreshing projects. One of the most recent is between Schwarz Etienne and Kari Voutilainen leaning heavily on the craft of guilloché executing multiple different patterns of engine turning (guilloché).
A hand guilloché dial and movement radiating from the balance wheel out, made by Les Ateliers Kari Voutilainen. Bridges, hand bevelled with straight-grained flanks.
Power reserve: 86 hours . Frequency: 3 HZ (21'600 Alt/h). Case: Stainless steel 39 mm. Height: 11.00 mm. Water resistance : 5 ATM / 50 m
Snailing on the ratchet wheel made by Les Ateliers. Kari Voutilainen, as well as the 18ct red gold plate.
Schwarz Etienne with Kari Voutilainen, Limited Edition 50 pieces
Contact Chantal at info@schwarz-etienne.ch for more information